What had happened to OFPMA? The now defunct, great Living Proof molecule that is/was a PFAS?

If you are a fan of RuPaul's Drag Race, you will likely appreciate the title of this blog post.

Remember how I used to love Living Proof? Probably not.

When Unilever purchased the brand in 2017, Jennifer Aniston said, "Ciao."

Since then, ingredient lists have been revamped, and random new products that do nothing have been introduced. 

Last year, Unilever decided to phase out the proprietary "healthy hair molecule" OFPMA (Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate). 

This molecule was the basis for the brand's creation, and one of several patented molecules. There was another for thickening, but I didn't think it was great. When the brand was still called "No Frizz," I purchased the no frizz straight-making treatment for thick-coarse hair, and it changed my life. I swore I'd be a lifelong consumer, until the brand discontinued the product to replace it with the smooth styling cream, which sucks. For years, I bought more on ebay.

Still, the brand continued to include OFPMA in its products. It was quietly phased out last year, apparently due to being a PFAS (forever chemical). Here is a quote (Edney, 2024):

"These changes can sometimes mean a favorite brand disappears for a bit. Living Proof, a hair care brand, eliminated a PFAS it was using, octafluoropentyl methacrylate, early last year, says Alexis Tedesco, the company’s chief marketing officer. The chemical provided smoothing technology and getting rid of it meant phasing out some products and reformulating or replacing others.

“Love it!! Waited over a year for its return!” Lynn B commented in May on Living Proof’s webpage for a product that aids in smoothing hair while blow-drying, one of many to express relief they could purchase the spray again. Though some complained the new formula didn’t work as well."

I recently posted this review on a site where the old ingredients are still listed:

If one compares the ingredient list of the product I received and what is listed on this site, one will notice some stark differences. First, the "healthy hair" molecule, OPFMA, is gone, and that is the only reason why I purchased this. It was/is? a patented molecule that prevents frizz, and it was the basis for the creation of this brand. Not only is the patented ingredient gone, but so are a handful of other hair strengthening/conditioning ingredients listed on this site, such as hydrolyzed silk and tucuma seed butter. These ingredients have been replaced with non-equivalent ingredients like hydrogenated castor oil and yeast amino acids. Not only does the ingredient list render this product worse at "repair" (hair is dead anyway, but certain ingredients can penetrate the cortex to strengthen or form a film to shield effectively), but the ingredient shift changed nothing in the verbage on the package, which seems really sketchy. Finally, the bottle I received is covered in dirt. I love [name of store where I purchased this], but this is a major fail.

Ingredients listed on site: Water/Eau/Aqua, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Isoamyl Laurate, Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate (OFPMA), Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Oleyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Silk, Behenyl/Stearyl Aminopropanediol Esters, Butylene Glycol, DimethylPABAmidopropyl Laurdimonium Tosylate, Astrocaryum Tucuma Seed Butter, Steareth-2, Steareth-10, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glycol Stearate, Cetylpyridinium Chloride, Fragrance/Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Citral.

Ingredients on bottle:

So, my question is: Is it a PFAS? Is that why Unilever removed it along with a handful of other well-known, non-PFAS, natural ingredients? Or is something much more sinister at play?

The odds are I'm in absolutely no position to ever find out. But I'll end on a final note: screw Living Proof. The brand sucks now. Don't give them your money. End rant.

References:

  Edney, A. (2024, February 7). ‘Forever chemicals’ are still found in Personal-Care products. Bloomberg.com. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/newsletters/2024-02-07/are-pfas-in-skin-care-shampoo-why-forever-chemicals-are-still-everywhere

Henna & Gray Hair & Semi-Permanent Dyes

I'm back! We'll see. With my gray hairs becoming much more abundant (probably genes + my history of chemically straightening my hair), I have to henna much more often. I only henna my roots, but my henna-ed orange highlights are much more visible.

So, I've taken to using semi-permanent dye over my henna as opposed to indigo. Semi-permanent dye does not (in theory) damage hair; it coats hair strands i.e. wraps around the henna. While henna has an affinity for keratin and permanently remains on the hair, semi-permanent hair color eventually washes out (in theory). I embarked on this test blindly; I could not find any instances of anyone else trying this. For that reason alone, I share this with you :)

Here are my reasons for using semi-permanent dye as opposed to indigo:

- Indigo smells bad
- I hate inhaling the powder
- It is a bitch to rinse out
- It has no benefit to hair
- It costs just as much as most of the semi-permanent dyes I have tried
- There is no interaction with BAQ henna

This is an introduction to a series of posts on semi-permanent dyes I have used over henna. I will be grading based on:

- Final color
- Conditioning/damage
- Cost
- Ease of use
- Staining everything else
- Scent
- How long the effect lasts

Here is a list of products (including color boosting conditioners) that I have tried:

- Lime Crime Unicorn Hair (shades: Sea Witch, Gargoyle, Blue Smoke)
- Punky Colour (Black)
- Clairol Colorista (Midnight Blue)
- Sephora (Tenacious Teal)
- Christophe Robin Temporary Color Gel (Dark Chestnut)
- DPHue Gloss+ Deep Conditioner (shades: Black, Dark Brown)
- Cristophe Robin Shade Variation Mask (shades: Ash Brown, Baby Blonde)

I have also used a handful of anti-brass conditioners, but those aren't very useful, so I won't be reviewing them. I also won't be reviewing the last two products listed, as they are masks and not intended to do too much for color. The rest of the products listed are described as providing medium to full coverage color for a certain amount of time.

You may ask why I chose the colors I chose (other than black). Most temporary black dyes have blue undertones. We all know that red + blue = purple. If you look at the color wheel, you will find that green is directly across from red:



Likewise, you will find orange directly across from aqua. So rather than adding blue to the orange/red henna, I like to add a very dark teal. My hair is naturally a very dark ash brown (my eyebrows are black - so dark black that I can't use most eyebrow products, as they all show up warm and brown on me). My goal is getting my hair closest to its natural color. Adding bright teal may mute the reddish orange henna, but it doesn't darken it much.

Okay, so without further ado, on to the reviews!

Boing! Deva Curl B'Leave In review

Here it is! My long awaited B'Leave In review. Am I a B'Leave - er? Will you have to suffer through a million puns? Read on to find out.

About DevaCurl B'Leave-In:

What it is:
Deva Curl (via Sephora) says B'Leave In is "a leave in curl booster."

Yeah, I guess so. I mean, you don't rinse it out. But this is not a leave in conditioner, and I certainly don't saturate my hair with it. So, minus one point, Deva Chan, for your strange and misleading product naming.

What it does:
Deva Curl (via Sephora) says "This botanically enriched curl volumizer enhances fullness and strength and is ideal for fine delicate curls."

Yeah, I guess so. At least they give some hint as to what the product is, but they're still being vague.

Read on for my review!

Like that extra glass of wine...L'Oreal Oleo Therapy Deep Recovery Mask Review

Here is what L'Oreal has to say about the deep recovery mask:

"Oleo Therapy Deep Recovery Mask is a sensorial restorative treatment formulated with a 6 flower oil blend. This new nourishing balm revives lifeless locks and restores hair's natural radiance. Leaves hair nourished and smoother."

If that statement alerts the bullshit policeman in you, don't fret. L'Oreal is a big liar, but so are all mass market beauty producers. We all know that the "6 flower oils" do nothing, and that hair cannot be "restored" with any permanence after damage. I try to look past the glossy advertising and fancy packaging that is sure to be reminiscent of Kerastase, a high end hair care brand also manufactured by L'Oreal. It's actually pretty genius advertising. The mask I bought looks very similar to a Kerastase Oleo Curl Masque I used eons ago:

Am I right?

I felt like I bought this product with an open mind. I did give it a fair shot. I used it three showers in a row (so, for about a week and a half). Still, there was something nagging me while I tried to write my "impartial" review:
Read on for my disclaimer, and a review!

Living Proof PHD review: Murphy Brown Lied to Us

I'm quoting Tina Fey (or Liz Lemon), "Murphy Brown lied to us." Murphy Brown made Liz Lemon believe she could have it all: a career and kids.

Living Proof lied to us. Living Proof said we could have it all (or at least 7 miracle hair benefits and a product that sounds like an advanced academic degree).

Do I smell a copycat? Haircare brand It's a 10 must be angry that its puffery is being so seamlessly mimicked. Pureology Color Fanatic: you're just kind of lame and late to the party. Bigger is not better: "21 benefits" just sounds like it was invented by a wish granting hair genie. I digress.

Living Proof has recently unveiled its newest, greatest, hair saving miracle, that does.....something.

What does it do?

According to Living Proof (via Sephora):

Living Proof's Perfect Hair Day (PHD) 5-in-1 Styling Treatment is powered by our award winning, patented molecules, OFPMA & PBAE, to provide the 5 styling & treatment benefits you need for beautiful, healthy hair in one simple step—smoothness, volume, conditioning, strength & polish. 

What it does: 
Provides a genius balance of styling & treatment benefits 
Provides 5 benefits needed for beautiful, healthy hair: 
- Smoothness 
- Volume 
- Conditioning 
- Strength 
- Polish 
- Heat Protection 
- UV Protection 
- Static Control 
Oil-free & silicone-free.

Read on for my review!

Product Review: Kinky Curly Curling Custard aka KCCC

Here's what Kinky Curly has to say:

"Kinky-Curly custard gel is a herbal conditioner that's suitable for all hair types. It smoothes the cuticle and easily detangles hair. Made from natural ingredients, this moisturizing hair gel nourishes and strengthens hair. It's infused with agave nectar's humectant properties to define your curls, give them weight, smooth frizz and offer long-lasting hold. The gel also adds a healthy shine without making your hair look greasy. This alcohol-free hair gel can be used as a leave-on conditioner for thick or curly hair. It's free of parabens and sodium lauryl sulfate."

Ingredients: 

botanical infusion of water, horsetail, chamomile, nettle and marshmallow, organic aloe vera juice, agave nectar extract, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin e), pectic, citric acid, potassium sorbate and natural fragrance

Read on for my review!

Product Review: DevaCurl - Ultra Defining Gel

Description (via Sephora): A ultradefining and moisturizing gel dissolves instantly when applied to wet hair and dries forming a moisture-protective case to enhance curls.

Read on for my review!

Product Review: L.A. Looks nutra-CURL

Edit 3/23: I don't use this in Colorado, as dries out my hair, and the small amount of buildup isn't worth it. For some reason I thought it was glycerin free, but I was wrong. Way to go, me :( It sits, sadly, under my sink. This review, however, was written in the humid Chicago summer.

On to the review:

Brazilian keratin treatments: a short (yet hopefully helpful) comparison list (UPDATED 8/23)

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but there is next to no information on the interwebs about current BKT products.  Any well known name brank BKT solutions (that contain some level of formaldehyde) have been banned from ebay.

I preface the rest of this post with a warning;

If you are not familiar with styling hair or doing extensive treatments, don't consider this an option. Formaldehyde is an extremely strong chemical in large doses, and you need to have the wherewithal to know how to execute this procedure, while staying away from your scalp.

I say that only because the following list might make you want to BKT, if you were ever curious. But please, tread lightly in the vast world of keratin treatments.

Read on for some of my experiences with BKT Brands:

Review: Living Proof Amp Instant Texture Volumizer

Here's what Living Proof says (via Sephora):
"Bring some life to your style. Get touchable texture plus amplified volume and flexible hold for that perfectly imperfect look. This texturizer works on dry hair so it’s instantly gratifying –and revivable for 48 hours. Bring instant life and energy to dry hair without the tradeoffs, and save time."

Read on for my review!